F 2223 

. R35 

1919 

Copy * The PAN AMERICAN UNION 

JOHN BARRETT : : : : Director General 
FRANCISCO J, YANES : Assistant Dire 



SEEING 
SOUTH AMERICA 



Principal Routes 
Larger Cities 

Natural Wonders 
Time Required 

Approximate Cost 

and 

Other Condensed Information 
for Prospective Travelers 




WASHINGTON, D. C. 

1919 



T5o 



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1919, Pan A merican I ' ■: 

Digitized by the Internet Archive 



in 2011 with funding from 
of Cong 



The Library bf-Cdngrfss. 



http://www.archive.org/details/seeingsouthameriOOreid 



FOREWORD 

BY 
JOHN BARRETT 

Director General. Pan American Union 

WITH the dawn and growth of the world's new- 
era, it seems reasonable to believe that travel 
upon land, on the sea, and in the air, will be 
greater than at any period of the past. The tendencies 
of the times are to visit lands other than one's own, to 
lend aid in upbuilding, in modernizing, in developing, 
to buy and to sell; and these activities foreshadow 
increased passenger traffic all over the world. 

The articles, of which this booklet is a reprint, first 
appeared in the English edition of the Bulletin of the 
Pan American Union. They were written in order to 
aid the traveler, who for business or pleasure, turns 
his course toward the great and promising Continent 
of South America. It does not in any sense purport 
to be a complete guide, for the several large volumes 
already on the market cover South American travel in 
detail. It does, however, aim to answer some of the 
most frequently asked questions that come to the 
Pan American Union from prospective travelers who 
are planning their first journey to the Southern Con- 
tinent. 

The names of hotels are not included, as directories 
covering_ South American hostelries in cities and towns 
are readily available in this country and aboard ships 
that sail to far southern ports. 

The author, William A. Reid, Trade Adviser of the 
Pan American Union, has made numerous trips to all 
parts of Latin America and is an acknowledged 
authority on the subject of travel and trade. 



Seeing South America 

PAGE 

The Start — East Coast 5 

The Far South 28 

The West Coast 43 

The Caribbean Nations 63 



Seeing South America 1 

The Start — East Coast 

TRAVELING for business or pleasure is a field of activity that 
has grown to enormous proportions during recent years, and one 
that ramifies into practically every quarter of the globe. Several 
years of disturbed international conditions, however, seriously affected 
the vast army of regular and prospective travelers. They were 
deflected from their accustomed courses or were compelled to remain 
at home. But a new travel era seems to be dawning ! 

A famous writer has said that the four greatest marvels of the 
universe are the mountain, the sea, the volcano, the desert. All of 
these and many more wonderful sights are now at the bidding of 
these who would cultivate an acquaintance with the South American 
continent and its peoples. The latter are now welcoming the traveler 
from foreign shores and are gradually improving the things that 
minister to his comfort and convenience. 

Instead of climbing Switzerland's rugged peaks, the enterprising 
traveler is invited to ascend the higher Andes to examine the homes 
left by the Incas and, perchance, contrast them with the low, rock- 
hewn caves of India's Elephanta ; he who has gazed in silent admira- 
tion upon Japan's sacred and symmetrical Fujiyama will be doubly 
pleased to see its counterpart in Ecuador's smoking Cotopaxi ; sailing 
up South American rivers to forests where man has never trod may 
be just as appealing as a voyage along the Nile to view the decaying 
works of the hordes of past ages ; in lieu of a stroll on the chariot- 
worn streets of Pompeii, we may meander amid the ruins of Bolivia's 
Tiahuanacu, a city that flourished possibly 3,000 years ago ; indeed, 
the whole continent of South America calls for more travelers to view 
its productive regions and its wonders — subjects that have not been 
exaggerated as compared with similar ones of other lands. 

South America is vast, her cities and natural wonders, unlike those 
of Europe, are usually widely separated, and the traveler must not ex- 
pect to flit birdlike from one place to another as in Europe and the 
United States. Neither must he expect to find the same degree of com- 
fort and luxury that are characteristic of the more thicklv populated 
regions of the earth. Europe has about 333 people per square mile ; 
the United States, 34 people for each square mile ; while some of the 
South American countries have barely 3 people spread over similar 
areas. The stranger should not be surprised, therefore, should he 

1 By William A. Reid, Trade Adviser, Pan American Union. 



alight some day at a small railway station or river port and rind no 
uniformed attendant to assist him. Travel aids and comforts can not 
be maintained in places where the traveler is rarely seen, so what we 
might term "pleasure travel pioneering" fitly applies to certain parts of 
South America today. In most cities the travel facilities are greatly 
superior to those I found, say, 5 or 10 years ago. In the larger cities 
the reasonable traveler will have comparatively few causes for com- 
plaint ; and in some cases he will find even better services at cheaper 
rates than in parts of the I nited States or Europe. For instance, the 
public carriage service in Buenos Aires, made possible by the inroad 
of the automobile over the use of the older vehicle. 

Strictly speaking, the word "tourist" is one who makes a tour or 
performs a journey in a circuit. This circular course is especially suit- 
able for any traveler who endeavors to see at least the larger cities of 
South America on one trip. Passenger steamers are available for sail- 
ing southward on one ocean and voyaging northward on another, 
while the choice of a transcontinental railway journey or a picturesque 
voyage through the Straits of Magellan form another part of the 
lengthy tour. 

Many prospective travelers are confronted with the question of 
which direction is best to take on starting from the United States. 
There are various things that enter into either itinerary, and no iron- 
clad rule can be laid down. That which suits one person may be dis- 
liked by another. But after traveling a number of times southward 
by the Atlantic and returning via the Pacific, and vice versa, the writer 
prefers sailing first for the eastern countries of the continent. The 
voyage of ten days or two weeks between New York and the coast 
of Brazil seems doubly tedious when the traveler is tired, which is 
likely to be the case if he is returning from the circular tour. If he 
starts out fresh from New York, the ocean for some days at least is 
a novelty, and the time quickly passes. Furthermore, the ship's food 
is fresher on the outward voyage, as the Atlantic steamers usually 
obtain supplies in New York in sufficient quantities to last during the 
round trip to Buenos Aires, with the possible exception of fruits and a 
few other articles. 

Traveling through the Panama Canal and on the Pacific is done 
by rather easy stages, frequent stops being made, which break the 
tedious sea voyage. From New York to Buenos Aires there are about 
four or five regular ports of call ; from the former to Valparaiso there 
are at least 12 or 15 ports visited, each furnishing glimpses of people 
and conditions more or less interesting. 




A CLOSE VIEW OF THE RAILWAY UP THE HEIGHTS OF CORCOVADO. 

The peak may be seen in the distance; it rises about 2,800 feet above the city of Rio de Janeiro, and from the ob- 
servatory on its summit one of the world's most wonderful lews is obtained. About halfway up the electric 
car stops at a restaurant and passengers may purcnasetrefreshments. 




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Comparing the Atlantic-European voyage with that to South .Amer- 
ica, it may be said that the latter is usually the smoother. It is best 
to avoid the Caribbean Sea in July, August, and September, as this is 
the season when hurricanes frequently develop. 

Seasons in North and South America are reversed, as is well known. 
When the United States is clothed with the snows of winter, the 
countries of Argentina and Chile are experiencing their summer days, 
and vice versa. If one is to visit Brazil only, it might be well to plan 
to be in the capital city and vicinity about the season of our summer 
months, when the Brazilian mornings and evenings are usually pleas- 
ant, although the sun of midday is hot. 

Illicit is the Cost of a South. American Trip? 1 That, of course, 
depends upon the length of the trip and the way one travels. Leading 
tourist companies which provide de luxe tours, including a liberal 
amount of sight-seeing by automobiles, patronize the finest hotels, and 
send a conductor with parties to relieve their members of the petty 
annoyances of travel, charge from $1,500 up for a tour lasting three 
months or longer. A round-trip ticket from New York to Buenos 
Aires, across the Andes to Valparaiso, and home via the Panama Canal 
is quoted by steamship companies at about $575 (at present $724) ; 
such tickets include stop-over privileges at all important cities and 
towns. The writer on one of his trips lasting many months averaged 
$11 per day; this was not a pleasure tour, and its course lay through 
interior regions where living conditions are primitive and the neces- 
sary expenses more moderate than in the city. One American traveler 
I met had spent two years in touring South America. His average 
daily expenses for everything amounted to $5.50; he patronized second- 
class hotels in larger cities and the best hostelries in small towns, and 
often resorted to second-class railroad tickets. In other words, he 
denied himself many comforts, a course the average traveler would 
be unwise to follow. 

Where two persons travel together, such as husband and wife, they 
may live comfortably and do considerable sight-seeing on, say, $10 
each per day ; a couple occupying one room at hotels, a double-berth 
compartment on trains, and eating together where meals are served 
a la carte, as in Buenos Aires and other large cities, the proportional 
expenses may be considerably reduced. When no entertaining is 
done and automobile rides are reduced to two or three trips about 
each city, and free use made of street cars, the expenses of a couple 



1 The rates quoted here are those prevailing in normal times. Today the rates on steam- 
ships, railroads and at hotels, are considerably higher. Commercial travelers covering South 
America at present, report an expenditure of from $15.00 to $20.00 per day for all expenses. 

IO 




AN ANT HILL IN BRAZIL 

If one travels by the day train between Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paulo he may see hundreds of hills like 
the one above pictured. They are often taller than a man, and are inhabited by multitudes of ants. 




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FALLS OF ITAPURA, TIETE RIVER, SAO PAULO, BRAZIL. 

One of the numerous cataracts obstructing the course of the Tiete River, which flows a distance of 500 
miles from the western slope of the Serra do Mar to the Alto Parana River. The rapids of this river 
furnish the electric light and power for the city of Sao Paulo. In a distance of less than half a mile 
there is a fall of 33 feet. 



may be brought to a still lower figure. It is unwise, however, to prac- 
tice such rigid economy, and a more liberal allowance of from $12 to 
$15 per day per person will provide many pleasures and additional 
sights, and at the end of the journey the traveler will hardly regret the 
increased outlay. Hotel rates for room and meals in the larger cities 
may be figured at from $4 to $5 daily per person when traveling in 
pairs. 

I have met foreign ladies in various parts of South America travel- 
ing together without male escorts ; this custom is uncommon in the 
Latin countries, but the ladies referred to were pleased with their ex- 
periences and reported no serious troubles. 

"Hozv shall I take funds to South America?" Letters of credit 
issued by the leading American banks, those issued by several tourist 
companies, express letters of credit, and express orders for small 
amounts of from $10 to $50 are the most convenient forms in which to 
carry money. Today American gold finds a ready exchange in South 
America and at fair rates ; a few years ago English gold was prefer- 
able because it was better known and everywhere acceptable. Numer- 
ous branches of United States banks are now established in Rio de 
Janeiro, Santos, Montevideo, Buenos Aires, Santiago, Lima, La Paz, 
Guayaquil, Panama, and other places, and they offer additional finan- 
cial conveniences for the traveler. Many of the South American 
banks and the branches of those of Europe also honor letters of credit 
of foreign banking houses. 

Before starting on a tour it is wise to procure a small amount of 
currency of the country to which one is bound. At the leading tourist 
offices in American cities one may buy money of almost any land at 
reasonable rates. If going first to Brazil it will be very convenient to 
have on hand a few milreis, the money of that country, to spend for 
incidentals before one has a chance to visit the Brazilian banks. The 
same course may be followed from country to country, trading the 
currency of the land one is leaving for that of the next Republic to be 
visited. 

"What kind of clothing shall I take zvith me to South America?" 
is a question constantly asked by the prospective traveler. The 
seasoned voyager, believing in preparedness for climatic changes 
regardless of whither his course leads, sails forth well fortified for 
varying temperatures. The South American traveler should do like- 
wise. Aboard ship, whether the itinerary is laid via Panama or down 
the Brazilian coast, light summer clothing will be required at all seasons 
and for many of the days spent aboard ship. As the vessel nears 

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Valparaiso in the Pacific or Montevideo in the Atlantic the temperature 
gradually changes and light wraps or overcoats are usually found 
quite comfortable, especially when one is on the steamer's deck. Rain- 
coats require small packing space and are often useful. 

On shore in most tropical ports the weather is warm or hot, depend- 
ing of course upon the time of day as well as the season of the year. 
Broadly speaking and with reference to ports a few hundreds of miles 
north or south of the Equator, the nights are fairly pleasant. As one 
ascends the Andes from Argentina to Chile, for instance, or travels 
inland to Bolivia the temperature lowers as the altitude increases and 
light wraps make one more comfortable, especially at night. Cool 
nights and hot days are typical of the river climates, such as is 
experienced on the voyage up the Paraguay to Asuncion. 

All things being considered, it seems proper to say that the traveler 
should carry both light and heavy clothing, the supply of each 
depending on the length of the tour and the sections to be visited. 
One steamer trunk, a suitcase, and possibly an English traveling bag 
with padlock ( for soiled clothes ) holds a sufficient wardrobe for the 
average business man or woman. Dress suits are convenient to have 
handy, but the whole tour may be as profitable and as interesting with- 
out them. However, most travelers to South America carry such 
clothing. 

It is advisable to have a passport when visiting any foreign coun- 
try. It is also well to be vaccinated and inoculated for smallpox and 
typhoid fever ; both operations are more easily accomplished before 
leaving home, and in case disease is encountered one is fortified in 
advance. South American customs officials are usually courteous 
if the traveler submits to a free examination of his baggage. It is 
well not to have firearms unless one is going to interior regions ; they 
often cause delay in passing the customs. English-speaking inter- 
preters are attached to most customs offices, the leading hotels and 
other public places, or may be procured on short notice to one's hotel 
office. 

After leaving Bridgetown, Barbados, sometimes a port of call, the 
average southbound passenger ship does not enter any of the Bra- 
zilian ports, with the possible exception of Pernambuco, until Bahia 
is reached. The latter is about 4,000 miles from New York, has a 
population of 250,000, is the third city of Brazil in commercial im- 
portance, and like the Canadian city of Quebec, possesses lower and 
upper sections, which are connected by several modern elevators and 
by winding streets. The lower town is the shipping district and is 

14 




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somewhat deserted at night for the amusement places, hotels, and cafes 
of the upper city. 

Upon arrival at Bahia the ship often anchors far put in the bay 
and the visitor has a fine view of the city before going ashore; for the 
latter purpose small boats manned by natives are used, and the fare 
per person is usually from I to 2 milreis, depending upon whether the 
time is day or night and condition of weather. 

If the traveler has a few hours on land an automobile or an electric 
car may be taken for Rio Yermelho, an attractive suburb undergoing 
improvements. The delicious fruits are a feature of strangers' visit 
to Bahia; oranges may be purchased for the equivalent of 1 or 2 
cents American money. Several hotels, one a new structure, offer 
opportunities for trying Brazilian food ; from hotel verandas one may 
watch the afternoon or evening crowds and thereby obtain a fair idea 
of local activities. 

If one is visiting a Latin country for the first time, Bahia will prove 
a revelation, as the many bright-colored residences, interspersed 
among beautiful tropical foliage, is especially pleasing to the novice. 
The traveler should wander on foot through the shops of the lower city, 
as such a trip reveals native characteristics and shows a bit of the 
business life of the people; the evening view over the harbor and its 
shipping is also interesting. 

About three days are required for the average vessel to make the 
run from Bahia to Rio de Janeiro, a distance of 745 miles. The 
Brazilian shore is in view most of the time. Some ship masters aim 
to round Point Cabo Frio about the break of day, and shortly there- 
after the vessel enters the Bay of Rio de Janeiro. This is one of the 
most beautiful harbor scenes that nature presents in any part of the 
world. Descriptions by the most gifted writers are inadequate, and 
neither painter nor photographer can depict the marvelous beauties 
with which nature has endowed the Brazilian capital. It must be 
seen and studied under varying conditions — at daybreak, at dusk, 
from Corcovado, from Tijuca, and from other points mentioned in the 
guide books. Oakenfull's Brazil, printed in English and Portuguese, 
and other books are to be found in the leading bookstores of the city. 

Rio de Janeiro has more than a million population. Its streets and 
avenues are interwoven among little mountains and hills, and archi- 
tects have taken advantage of nature's plans and constructed many 
picturesque villas on the sides of overhanging cliffs. The city lies 
within a Federal district, about eight times larger than the District of 
Columbia. Great civic improvements mark recent years, sanitation 




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has been brought to a high state of efficiency, and the traveler who 
observes ordinary precautions has little to fear from disease. 

Hotels are numerous and fairly reasonable in their charges. Four 
to six dollars per day are usual rates. The Extrangeiros, the Central, 
the Avenida, and the International, are among the best. The latter is 
situated on the mountain side half an hour by electric car from the 
heart of the city. A very fine hotel building was recently completed. 

If the traveler has only a few days in Rio de Janeiro he should, of 
course, see the most important sights first. By climbing Corcovado 
by the electric cog road a wonderful view of the many sections of 
the city is obtained ; also an excellent view is to be seen from the 
top of Sugar Loaf Peak, reached by hanging trolley. The Tijuca 
motor-car trip, made in a few hours, covers a wide range of subjects 
and scenery. The Botanical Garden, the National Museum, the 
Monroe Palace, the celebrated shopping street called Ouvidor (new 
name Moreira Cesar) are easily reached by the electric cars from the 
principal hotels. The seaside resort of Copacabana, especially if the 
time be summer (November-February), will reveal a phase of the 
Brazilian at play. If time permits, a rail trip to Petropolis, made in 
half a day, will be found interesting. This little city is high up in the 
Organ Mountains and is the summer residence of many well-to-do 
Brazilians and foreigners. Formerly the foreign diplomats lived 
there, but improvements in the capital city have caused many to 
reside permanently in Rio de Janeiro. 

After the traveler has viewed the sights of the Brazilian capital, if 
southward bound, a train trip to Sao Paulo, 300 miles southwestward, 
will land one at the Chicago of Brazil. There is usually a day train 
and a night train, the latter carrying sleepers ; the former is best for 
those who are interested in catching views of slightly interior sec- 
tions of Brazil and some of the business enterprises along the route. 

Sao Paulo is a very active business city, with 500,000 population; 
it is the capital of the State of the same name, the latter comprising 
millions of acres of the Brazilian coffee region. There are splendid 
public buildings, new and modern hotels, and good automobile and 
carriage services are offered the visitor at reasonable rates. About 
3,500 miles of railways radiate from this city into interior regions, 
and if the traveler has time an interesting excursion may be made to 
some of the great coffee plantations. Mackenzie College, an American 
institution which has done such splendid work in educational fields, 
is located in Sao Paulo, and is well worth seeing. A visit to the new 
Municipal Theater and a drive through the rapidly modernizing resi- 



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dential section of the city is recommended; Paulista Museum contains 
many interesting Brazilian products. 

From Sao Paulo to Santos a railway, 50 miles lung, affording mag- 
nificent tropical views, transports the traveler to the world's greatest 
coffee port. Ships now go alongside the docks recently completed. 
Many passenger vessels north or south hound call at Santos, so the 
traveler may journey by rail from Rio de Janeiro via Sao Paulo and 
meet his ship at Santos. Visits should be made to the great coffee 
warehouses, and a trolley trip to Guaruja will take the visitor past 
some of the important enterprises of the city. Santos has a population 
of about 50,000. 

There is railway connection between the capitals of Brazil and 
Uruguay; but it is not advisable, on account of irregular trains and 
primitive conditions, for the average traveler to attempt to make this 
journey by land, as at present it requires about a week, or double the 
steamer's schedule time. 

The capital of Uruguay lies on the direct route of the traveler to 
South American countries, and practically all of the steamship com- 
panies operating in that part of the world have their vessels call at 
Montevideo. The latter is one of the cleanest cities found on the 
Continent; it has a population of 400,000, is distant from Xew York 
about 5,760 miles, and its harbor is considered one of the best in South 
America, the bay being 6 miles wide. The hotels of Montevideo are 
numerous, and some of them quite modern, with steam heat, which 
is frequently demanded when the cold winds from the Atlantic prevail 
even in the summer months of November, December, and January. 
Visits may be made by automobile, carriage, or electric trolley to 
suburban resorts of Pocitos, Ramirez, and to the many beautiful parks 
in the city proper. The magnificent Solis theater is one of the attrac- 
tions for the stranger to visit ; at the Cathedral, especially on Sunday 
mornings, a line of splendidly dressed people arriving and departing by 
motor cars and afoot present a glimpse of the aristocratic classes. 
Many visitors enjoy a drive to the Cerro, the great hill that dominates 
the city and from which a fine view is obtained. Paseo de Molino and 
Plaza Matrix should be visited. 

Uruguay is the smallest of the South American Republics, being 

•about the size of the New England States; it is a very prosperous 

agricultural and pastoral land, and claims the "largest kitchen in the 

world'' at Frey Bentos, where approximately 2,000 cattle are turned 

into beef extract daily. The latter city is off the average traveler's 

- 7 3 



itinerary 3 but if time permits it may be reached in a few hours by 
rail from Montevideo. 

About a hundred miles up the River Plata, or 5,860 miles from New- 
York, lies the largest city of the continent — Buenos Aires. Today 
the latter has a population of 1,700,000, and its peoples form a cosmo- 
politan mass, gathered from all parts of the world. Argentine immi- 
gration in several normal years averaged nearly 1,000 persons a day, 
most of whom drifted to the country to find work on the hacienda or 
farm. Fine hotels are to be enjoyed; and to many travelers the gay 
life along the Avenida de Mayo will make strong appeals. Hotels and 
cafes on this great avenue are numerous and there is always a constant 
flow of people. At one end of this avenue stands the capitol of the 
nation ; at the other end, in the Government Palace, are situated the 
various offices of government. 

So many important things press upon the traveler's attention in 
Buenos Aires that one will find it best to map out a course based on 
his inclination and desires, unless there are weeks of time available 
for getting acquainted with the great city and its activities. The 
guide book, Baedeker of the Argentine, may be found at leading 
bookstores. This admirable work is by Albert B. Martinez, a native 
Argentine, and its 500 pages contain a fund of information suitable 
for all classes of travelers, not only for those visiting" the capital but 
for those interested in other sections of the country. There is an 
English edition ; and one of the most important chapters for the 
stranger is "How to employ one's time.'' 

The following are some of the important places visited by the 
average stranger : Government Palace, Capitol Building, Recoleta 
Cemetery, Jockey Club Building and also the race course, Colon 
Theater, the wool market at Riachuelo, Fine Arts Museum, water 
works, Palermo, Tigre, etc. The writer suggests taking tea at 
Harrod's at about 5 p. m., when many of the members of society are 
usually present ; a walk on Calle Florida between 4 and 6 o'clock in 
the afternoon to see the shopping crowds and the business men, and 
a ride on the new underground railroad from the Plaza de Mayo to 
Cabillito. Carriages and automobiles are plentiful in Buenos Aires, 
and the former are to be hired at very reasonable rates. For a peso 
(44 cents) one may drive for a number of blocks; automobiles are 
somewhat higher than the rates prevailing in the United States, but 
every driver or chauffeur has a rate card authorized by the city 
authorities and the stranger is thus protected against exorbitant 
charges. 

25 







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SCENE ON AN ARGENTINE RANCH. 

We are inclined to think of Argentina as a vast stretch of plain without artistic aspects. The view here 
portrayed is a scene on San Juan Leonardo Pereyro estancia. From Buenos Aires the traveler may visit 
with little loss of time one or more ranches quickly reached by train. 



La Plata, Argentina's model city (population 100,000), lies within 
35 miles of Buenos Aires and there are many trains daily between the 
two cities; the former also has a number of fine Government build- 
ings, an interesting museum, court buildings, university and observa- 
tory, and various other attractions. The round trip may be made in 
half a day. 

Rosario, the second city of Argentina, with a population of 250,000, 
lies 200 miles up the Plata River; it may be reached by river steamer 
or by railway train, and if the traveler goes by rail and returns by 
steamer the time is well spent. The railway trains pass through a 
prosperous wheat section, while the river trip gives one a glimpse of 
the vast traffic that passes up and down the Plata. 




GENERAL VIEW OE ONE OF TTIE MANY PARKS OF BUENOS AIRES 



27 



The Far South 



THE traveler while in the far southland may wish to make the 
trip to Asuncion, the capital of Paraguay and the metropolis of 
one of the two interior nations of the continent; and perhaps 
this desire is increased for the reason that a few hundred miles off the 
well-traveled route to Asuncion, lies the great Cataract of the Iguazu. 
Suppose, then, a few weeks are available for making this rather 
unusual journey ; exact time can not be stated, as much depends upon 
railway and steamboat connections and the condition of river waters. 

From Buenos Aires one may go to Asuncion by train or by river 
steamer. It is less tiresome to travel northward by the former ; the 
return trip by the Paraguay and Plata Rivers is then made in shorter 
time by steaming with the current. There is a weekly or sometimes a 
semi-weekly through train in operation between the capitals of the two 
countries ; the usual time required to cover the distance of approxi- 
mately 1,000 miles is about 2 l / 2 days. Steamers make the up-river 
run in from 3 to 5 days. 

To visit the Falls of the Iguazu the traveler leaves the train at 
Posadas (or steamer at Corrientes), a small Argentine town on the 
Alto Parana River opposite the Paraguayan town of Encarnacion, 
about 45 hours after departing from Buenos Aires. Here transfer 
is made to one of the little steamers that ply up and down the Alto 
Parana. These steamers leave Posadas every few r days, there being 
several boats in the service which carry passengers. The Iberd and 
the Salto are among the best. If close connection is not made, the 
traveler must stop over at Posadas, where there are several hotels, 
primitive, but undergoing improvements. After three days' voyaging 
up the Alto Parana, making calls at little ports along the way and stop- 
ping at night at quiet coves, the traveler is landed at Port Aguirre ; this 
place is about half a mile from the mouth of the Iguazu River. If the 
time be between the months of March and September one has arrived 
at the best season for viewing the falls. 

The boat then proceeds to the head of steam navigation on the 
Alto Parana, and a few days later calls for the traveler on the return 
trip. In the meantime, the proprietor of the building at Port Aguirre 
provides food and cots, and also mules or a coach for visiting the 
falls, about 11 miles distant. The route leads through a jungle where 
no habitations exist, but along the way one is interested in giant forest 
trees, wild flowers, creeping vines, birds, butterflies, and now and 

28 



then a small animal is seen glaring from the thick undergrowth. The 
muleteers, however, are provided with rifles, and there seems to be 
little danger of being molested by denizens of the forest. 

Arriving at the falls, the traveler finds several small buildings 
within which are cots, tables, chairs, etc., and he can make himself 
fairly comfortable ; but the insects are annoying, both night and day. 
A powder called Bufach, which may be purchased before leaving 
Buenos Aires, is generally quite effective. Food is brought from Port 
Aguirre. Sometimes one of the muleteers shoots a bird or catches a 
fish, and thus adds to the menu. It is worthy of remark that several 
mineral waters or Argentine wine may be purchased at Port Aguirre 
and brought with one; few travelers drink the river or spring waters, 
although they appear perfectly pure. 

The Falls of the Iguazu are beautiful, magnificent, wonderful, and 
as a whole rank as one of the world's greatest cataracts. There are 
a series of falls, the highest having a drop of 210 feet, as compared 
with 164, the greatest single fall at Niagara. Opinions differ, of 
course, in drawing comparisons of world cataracts. The Iguazu 
thunders and whirls amid the solitude of primeval forests, surrounded 
by giant trees, creeping vines, orchids, and other tropical growth. 
Only three human beings, a man, woman, and child (when the writer 
was there), keep vigil, so to speak, over the marvelous freak of 
nature. They care for the little house or two, and when a visitor 
comes the woman cooks the food, while her companion acts as guide 
about the area of the rushing waters. 

Within a week or 10 days the traveler returns with the little 
steamer to Posadas, having enjoyed many unusual experiences. He 
may or may not have to wait again at - Posadas for the train for 
Asuncion ; it usually passes early in the forenoon once or twice a week. 
The through cars are transported across the Alto Parana aboard a 
specially constructed ferry boat, and on the Paraguayan shore, near 
Embarcacion, are drawn up an incline by steam power. 

At the station of the Central Paraguay Railway a new train is 
made up by attaching the cars from Buenos Aires ; a short stop is 
made at Embarcacion, a town of about 8,000 people, and then begins 
the journey across Paraguay, which lasts from morning until nearly 
midnight. Distance, 232 miles. The train carries a dining car and 
very fair meals are served ; and it is not unusual for passengers to sit 
the whole day in this car. Strangers prefer to remain in their com- 
partments of the regular coaches and visit the diner at meal hours. 
For those who are sociologically inclined there are interesting studies 

30 



seen at every little station along the route. The business man will be 
impressed with the large number of cattle and glimpses of lumber 
industries observed from the train. 

Asuncion dates from 1536, and most travelers consider it an inter- 
esting old city. Paraguayan history is well worth reading before 
arriving or while one tarries within the gates of the capital. Asuncion 
is only 200 feet above sea level ; average summer temperature, October 
to March, is 64 F. ; annual mean temperature is about 71° F. ; popula- 
tion is 80,000 ; electric lights and modern street cars were recently 
introduced ; buildings are attractive and rather different architecturally 
from those of other Latin American cities. The stranger should visit 
the Government Palace ; National Library, a most interesting collection 
of rare books ; Arsenal ; National Museum, where some beautiful 
paintings are exhibited ; Tacumba Hill for the excellent view ; and the 
markets. A day spent at San Bernardino, one hour's time by rail, 
will give one a good idea of a Paraguayan resort patronized by the 
best people. 

The streets of Asuncion are roughly paved, but in the newer 
section, where most of the foreign legations are located, considerable 
progress has been made in improving and beautifying the streets and 
avenues, and automobiles have been introduced. Hotels are fair, and 
in two of them the writer found modern plumbing and bathing facilities. 
Extensive port improvements are planned. 

Steaming down the Parana and Plata Rivers is not without inter- 
est, and the various short stops will provide the traveler with oppor- 
tunity for going ashore and visiting the markets and shops of river 
towns of northern Argentina. 

The trip from Buenos Aires and return, including the Iguazu, Asun- 
cion, etc., may usually be made for from $200 to $300, which covers 
all necessary expenses. 

From Buenos Aires, the traveler bound for the western countries of 
the continent has the choice of two principal routes, the other routes 
not yet being practical for the average traveler. The former is by rail 
across the Andes, 888 miles to Valparaiso, and the other by steam- 
ship via the Straits of Magellan, a distance of over 2,000 miles to 
reach the ports of central Chile. The railway requires two full days 
and one night, and at the present writing there is a weekly train. If 
the traveler leaves Buenos Aires a few days in advance of the departure 
of the transcontinental train, and goes as far as Mendoza, 635 miles 
westward from Buenos Aires, he may enjoy a short sojourn in one of 
Argentina's interesting western cities and catch the trans-Andine 

32 



express as it passes Mendoza. This city has been damaged several 
times by earthquakes, but each time it has been rebuilt more modern 
and pretentious than before. 

Mendoza has 30,000 people and lies at an altitude of about 2,370 
feet; the city dates from 1 561. There are many carriages and an 
increasing number of automobiles. The traveler should take the lat- 
ter and in a few hours visit one or more of the great "bodegas," or 
wine establishments, for which the surrounding section is famous ; 
also visit the hill overlooking the city and see the monument com- 
memorating the passage of Gen. San Martin over the Andes many 
vears ago. The monument is one of the most beautiful in all South 
America, and the view from its base is magnificent. 

At Mendoza the narrow-gauge railway begins ; it ends at Los Andes 
on the Chilean side of the mountains and is approximately 160 miles 
long. All passengers traveling in either direction must, of course, 
change cars at Mendoza. The start from the latter city is usually 
made early in the day, and the traveler thus has daylight during the 
interesting trip, which is replete with splendid views and the sight 
of marvelous feats of engineering. The tunnel is nearly 3 miles long 
and lies at an altitude slightly over 10,000 feet; about midway of the 
tunnel is the boundary of the two countries. The famous statue of 
Christ the Redeemer stands on the boundary 2,000 feet above the 
tunnel and is not seen by travelers who use the railway; but if one 
has a week to spare he may arrange (consult station master, Mendoza) 
for a mule or coach trip from Punta de las Yacas or Las Cuevas over 
the mountain pass where the monument stands. At the high altitude 
of 12,000 feet one often encounters strong winds or snowstorms, and 
only the robust should undertake the strenuous mule trip over the 
Lspallata Pass. At Los Andes all passengers must change to stan- 
dard-gauge trains of Chilean roads. 

The water route from Argentina to Chile is usually navigated in 
European steamships, and in normal times fortnightly sailings (at 
times more frequent) are provided, the length of the voyage being 
12 to 14 days. Some of these ships call at the Falkland Islands. 1,000 
miles south of Montevideo and several hundred miles east of Tierra 
del Fuego. The writer considers the call at Port Stanley very interest- 
ing, and its remoteness from the great throbbing world adds a touch 
of quaintness. The town has about 1.000 population, and English is 
largely spoken. Ships anchor in Port William Inlet, a land-locked 
bay, and small boats convey the traveler ashore. 

A few large buildings, a cathedral, the residence of the governor, 

35 





Photo by Lieutenant t J earo Lmersuu. (Jourtesy of Tile Outing iVlagazine. 

CONTRASTING SCENES IN THE FAR SOUTH 

Upper: One of the fine residences at Punta Arenas in the Strait of Magellan. This city of 20,000 people is an 
ocean crossroads, and there are always foreign ships in the harbor. Lower: the lonely lighthouse on Staten 
Island, which lies northeast of Cape Horn. The home of the lightkeeper is situated a short distance away 
but is not shown in the picture. 



soldier barracks, and the shops are quickly seen; a walk back from 
the town over the hills gives one a better glimpse of the country, 
bare and brown in appearance. The souvenir hunter has little to find, 
but in certain seasons, say from November to February, small wild 
flowers are abundant. East and West Falklands are the two larger 
islands, which, with many small ones, comprise the Falkland group. 
Port Stanley now has a wireless tower and may thus communicate 
with ships or with Punta Arenas. 

A rather rough sea is likely to be encountered on the voyage from 
the Falklands to the world's southernmost city, Punta Arenas, 900 
miles farther south than New Zealand's city of Christchurch. The 
former has about 20,000 people, is 6,890 miles from New York, 3,980 
miles south of Panama, and is the only place in South America where 
sleighing and ice skating are common amusements. Latitude 53 . 
The ship usually anchors a mile or more off the port and small boats 
are used for going ashore. The traveler will be rather surprised at 
the number of good buildings, wide streets, and shops. The land rises 
gradually from the water's edge, and if the traveler will climb the 
hills back of the city a fine view is obtained of the surrounding country, 
with distant views of Tierra del Fuego. 

The little museum in the Colegio Salasiano should be visited ; it 
contains curios and works of crude art of the natives of the Fuegian 
Archipelago and other near-by regions. Within the same building 
is a school, the southernmost seat of learning on the globe, excepting 
the small classes at Ushuaia, a little further south. A few curios for 
sale may be found in the shops. Picture postcards are plentiful. 
There is cable service with the United States and with Europe. The 
region has 250 days of cloudy or rainy weather a year, while at some 
seasons the day begins to break not very long after the hour of mid- 
night. 

If the ship sails from Punta Arenas in daylight the traveler will 
be doubly rewarded, especially if the sun shines. Beautiful and sub- 
lime sights greet the eye. A feeling of loneliness, of helplessness, 
of one's utter desolation seems to engulf the ship as it steams slowly 
toward the Pacific, dominated on every side by the wonderful works 
of the Creator. The traveler should watch for Cape Froward, the 
southernmost tip of the South American Continent ; and far south- 
ward may be seen Mount Sarmiento, the highest peak in Tierra del 
Fuego. 

As the Pacific Ocean is reached the ship begins to roll ; passengers 
bid farewell to the "three sister islands" that lie near the western 

37 



entrance to the Straits, and endeavor to make themselves comfortable. 
High seas often prevail in this latitude and as the vessel steams north- 
ward she is likely to have considerable motion. Small steamers often 
take the Symthe Channel route, but large ships and sailing vessels 
usually go far out to sea in their northward course. 

The traveler may land at the first Chilean port of call, which is 
usually Coronel or Lota, where many vessels take on coal, and go 
by rail to Concepcion, the southern metropolis of Chile. 

Concepcion is the third largest city of Chile. It has a population 
of 52,000 and is about 415 miles south of Santiago. Several hotels, 
managed by natives and by Germans, offer very fair accommodation, 
the architecture of the buildings being the two-story plan, with large 
courts upon which the rooms open. Many private homes are one- 
story structures, one of the reasons being that in the past earthquakes 
have caused much damage to property and the lower the structure the 
less the danger. 

One of the city's unusual sights for the foreigner is the custom of 
employing women as street-car conductors. The cars usually have 
upper and lower sections ; the former, being the cheaper, is used by 
poorer classes. While in Concepcion take one of the electric cars and 
visit Talcahuano, Chile's important naval station, which has a popula- 
tion of 16,000. The famous Cousina estate is not far distant from 
Concepcion. 

In the region surrounding Concepcion lie the country's greatest 
coal mines ; they are actively worked and supply fuel for many passing 
ships. There is a large German population in Concepcion, which is 
also the case with the country extending southward to Puerto Montt. 
Architecture in this section of Chile partakes of German styles. Rural 
activity of the region is especially noticeable. 

The traveler has a full day aboard train from Concepcion to 
Santiago, starting about 7 a. m. Pullman chair cars are in service. 
The route lies through the valley of Chile, and on either side of the 
railroad one catches glimpses of the agricultural activity of the people; 
the little way stations are interesting. In the distance the snowcapped 
Andes often loom into view, contrasting strongly with the growing 
crops of the lowlands. Descendants of the aborigines are frequently 
seen, offering to the traveler homemade trinkets or fruits. 

Santiago, the capital of Chile, lies on the Mapocho, and is one of 
the most prosperous as well as one of the prettiest cities of South 
America. The population numbers about 400,000 ; the climate of the 
city and the vicinity is pleasant, being more or less similar to that of 

39 





SCENES IN SANTIAGO, CHILE. 

Upper: A view of the Alameda de las Delicias, showing the statue of San Martin in the distant 
center Lower: The National Museum, located in the Quinta Normal, in which are to be 
found interesting collections illustrating Chilean archaeology, geology, and botany, as well as 
I istorical relics 



southern California or the Carolinas. Lack of abundant rains in the 
summer months (our winter) sometimes makes the surrounding coun- 
try rather dusty for the traveler ; in the cities and towns, however, 
street sprinkling prevents this disagreeable feature. The altitude of 
the city is 1,700 feet; distance to Valparaiso is 115 miles. The new 
port of San Antonio is considerably nearer the capital, but its chief 
use at present is the shipping and receiving of freight. 

Recent years have been marked by many improvements in San- 
tiago. Several good hotels exist and quite recently two or three new 
restaurants have been opened ; but, as a Chilean statesman remarked 
to the writer, "Santiago's hotels have not advanced with the city; we 
must make them still more attractive to the stranger," which no doubt 
will be done. Electric cars, automobiles, and carriages convey the 
traveler about the city ; in case one uses the latter, the good Chilean 
horses are especially pleasing. One of the first drives or walks should 
be to the top of the hill of Santa Lucia, where one observes the beau- 
tiful and unusual treatment applied to a great hill within the heart 
of the city. The Cerro, as it is called, lies a short distance from the 
Plaza de Armas, the business heart of Santiago. Once upon the 
summit a fine view of the city and the surrounding valley is obtained. 

Several large bookstores near the hotels handle English and Amer- 
ican books and papers ; the English language is spoken by several of 
the clerks, and guide-books may be obtained. Some of the attractions 
for the traveler are : Halls of Congress, Fine Arts- Building, Mint, 
Cathedral, the race course at Forest Park, Cousifia Park, Agricultural 
Park, Argentina's legation building, which was presented to that 
nation by Chile, President's Palace, University of Chile, Santiago 
Club, and of course the Alameda. The latter is one of the world's 
widest avenues ; along it stand at intervals statues of the heroes of 
Chilean history. 

Glimpses of Chilean social life may usually be obtained by visiting 
Cousifia Park late in the afternoon or evening, where the wealthier 
classes are seen riding and driving or enjoying cafe life under spread- 
ing trees. The Sunday races also attract the cream of society. The 
band concerts in the Plaza de Armas, about three times a week, are 
interesting ; they draw large crowds and afford the stranger opportu- 
nities for mingling with the Chilean people. 



41 



The West Coast 



A FTER a pleasant sojourn in the Chilean capital the traveler, in 
/\ accordance with his itinerary, turns his course northward and 
■*- *• homeward. In so doing he should bear in mind these facts: 
The eastern countries of the Continent have received from early days 
a stream of European immigration, which has greatly aided their com- 
mercial and industrial advancement. The countries of western South 
America have not to any great extent enjoyed the influx of new 
peoples; neither has European capital responded so freely to their 
call for financial aid in upbuilding. 

It should also be remembered that from Straits of Magellan to 
Panama stretches the world's greatest commerce-defying mountain 
system. Constructing railways and highways within this region has 
been the patient toil of years rather than the work of months. Truly, 
the east coast and the west coast offer wonderful contrasts. Nature 
evidently designed the former for the man who tills the soil and 
rears the flock; the latter for those who would delve into the king- 
dom of minerals. To enjoy our tour to the fullest let us take things 
as they are; not condemn for lack of progress but, if possible, bestow 
a word of praise for difficulties surmounted — for ends attained. 

We are to pass over vast areas where rain never falls ; to visit 
towns and villages that have been building for a hundred years and 
more, but are not modern ; and in some cases we shall see the decay- 
ing marks of peoples who builded marvelously — a challenge to the 
most skilled constructor of today ; all in all, the remainder of our tour 
will be quite as interesting as the beginning, but of an entirely different 
nature as regards sightseeing and development. 

Planning to leave Santiago for Valparaiso by a morning train, we 
secure Pullman chair seats a day in advance, and passing down the 
Alameda in automobile or coach, bid farewell to the Chilean capital. 
The distance to Valparaiso is 115 miles; fare, 1 12.80 pesos, with 4 
pesos extra for Pullman seat (about $3.35 ) ; the time is from 3^ to 4 
hours. Probably the most interesting little station along the way is 
Llai Llai, which has about 3,000 people, and is a junction of the rail- 
road from southern Chile with the trans- Andine. Roads in this section 
are standard gauge, and first-class service is maintained. At Llai Llai 
many native women and children offer delicious fruits and other foods 



1 These are rates of normal times; the traveler must expect to find them somewhat 
higher since the great war. 

43 



to the traveler ; the fruit is often very tine, hut on account of being 
exposed to dust should be eaten only after thorough cleansing. 

The next railroad junction is Calera, where the "Chilean longi- 
tudinal" continues its course northward. One could travel hundreds 
of miles northward through the Chilean mining region by this rail- 
road, but at present fast trains suitable for the average foreign traveler 
are not operated. As a rule ships are faster and more comfortable ; 
one could, however, travel slowly by rail and finally enter Bolivia with- 
out even seeing the ocean. 

Shortly before arriving in Valparaiso the train halts at Vina del 
Mar, Chile's great seaside resort. It is considered best to continue 
to Valparaiso, settle one's self in a hotel, and return by trolley to the 
resort. 

Valparaiso (Vale of Paradise) has 200,000 population; the place 
was named by its founder, Saavedra, after his native village in Spain. 
Like Naples, Gibraltar, Hongkong, and many other great ports of the 
world, there is an upper and lower city ; and these are connected by 
several public elevators and by winding streets. Earthquakes have 
from time to time wrought destruction, but each time the city rises in 
more modern form. It is built around a semicircular bay, opening 
to the north, and occasionally heavy swells or "northers" sweep in 
from the sea and cause damage to harbor shipping. Millions of dol- 
lars are being spent in constructing breakwaters in order to make the 
harbor safer at all seasons. 

Places of interest are the naval school on the heights, from which 
there is an excellent view over the harbor ; private residences, many 
of which overhang the lower city; Government Palace; the water 
front, which offers opportunities for those interested in the movement 
of commerce ; new naval docks. A day may be profitably spent in 
wandering or motoring about Vina del Mar visiting the casinos, clubs, 
bathing beaches, hotels, or viewing -the residences of people of wealth 
and refinement. The profusion of flowers is another attraction of this 
resort which w r ill be doubly pleasing if the visitor arrives in the summer 
season (our winter). There are usually guests from various parts of 
Chile, from Argentina, Bolivia, and other countries. Chilean life is 
to be seen at its best. 

From Valparaiso to Panama the traveler has a voyage of 3,200 
miles (time, 12 days for fast vessels making few stops), and for more 
than half the distance the ship sails with the northward-flowing Hum- 
boldt current, which bathes the whole Chilean and many miles of the 
Peruvian coast. Along this vast coast line stretches one of the 

45 





VIEWS IN THE CHILEAN NITRATE REGION. 

Upper: Explosion in the nitrate bed a few feet below the surface throws the caliche or crude product in 
a form easily handled by laborers. Lower: The caliche after workmen have piled it up ready to be 
placed on small cars which transport it to the "oficina" or plant. 






NITRATE OF SODA, CHILE. 

Nitrate of soda is a necessary ingredient in the production of high explosives and is the most 
valuable of all fertilizers. Top picture: Typical nitrate pamoa. Province of Antofagasta. 
Center picture: Crystallizing the nitrate. Lower picture: The nitrate in bulk delivered 
at the coast to be bagged and shipped abroad. 



world's mineral wonderlands. Hundreds of miles are bare and brown; 
nothing grows and nothing lives, save where man here and there has 
established settlements and towns, whose inhabitants are maintained 
by the importation of food and drink. In supplying Antofagasta, for 
instance, with water for domestic purposes, a pipe line nearly 200 miles 
long is in use. 

In normal times there are five or more lines of steamers 1 which 
transport the traveler northward, and on at least two of these lines 
the tickets are interchangeable. We may go part way by one com- 
pany's vessels and then transfer to the other line. This service 
permits of approximately weekly sailings. These lines are Cia. Sud 
Americana de Vapores and the Pacific Steam Navigation Co., the 
former a Chilean and the latter an English company. From Peru- 
vian ports to Panama there is the Peruvian Line, and a Japanese com- 
pany is now sailing its fine passenger ships between Valparaiso. 
Panama, San Francisco, and the Orient. The Japanese vessels are 
among the largest passenger steamers now in service along the west 
coast. 

Most travelers prefer to break the long voyage by a visit to Bolivia. 
Suppose, then, we leave the ship at Antofagasta. This city of 20,000 
people has completely changed its life and appearance within the last 
few years. Street paving, sidewalks, new buildings, paint, motor cars, 
and motor busses have wrought marvelous improvements. 

About twice a week there is a through train to La Paz, the capital 
of Bolivia. The distance is 711 miles; time, 45 hours; the gauge of 
the road is 2^ feet ; and the highest elevation along the line is approx- 
imately 12,500 feet above the sea. The route lies across the nitrate 
region of Chile and through the mineral belt of Bolivia. Sleeping 
and day coaches are provided. Meals are served in a dining car, and 
they are a credit to the English company operating the road. 

Some people find the journey monotonous ; others consider it inter- 
esting and delight in watching the sights along the way, such as nitrate 
operations, salt lakes, native villages, droves of llamas and alpacas, 
primitive peoples, and wonderful views. A short distance beyond 
Calama the train passes over a bridge spanning the River Loa. The 
former is 336 feet above the rushing waters, while the altitude is over 
10,000 feet above sea level. Lake Poopo, which receives the waters 

1 American steamers are now operating between New York and Valparaiso, their route 
being through the Panama Canal. Other American passenger vessels are sailing from San 
Francisco to Panama and ports further south. New Orleans is also planning direct steam- 
ship service to South America. 

48 



of Lake Titicaca, and has practically no visible outlet, is one of the 
interesting sights near the road. 

At Oruro, 150 miles from La Paz, all passengers must change to 
the broader-gauge railway, which was built by United States cap- 
italists. The business man may stop over at Oruro and possibly visit 
Cochabamba in Bolivia's rich agricultural region; but the tourist, in 
his usual hurry, passes on to La Paz. 

The first sight of the Bolivian metropolis from the Alto is inde- 
scribably grand and picturesque. A modern electric road is also avail- 
able for the trip down the mountain side into the city. The winding 
ride of a few miles presents at every turn new and attractive views. 
One wonders why the city was started so deep down in a gigantic 
valley. This is explained by the fact that early settlers found specks 
of gold in the streams flowing down from the mountains, and the set- 
tlement has grown to a populous city. 

La Paz has more than 80,000 people. Many of its streets are steep, 
but modern electric cars wind in and out, while automobiles arc 
growing in number and are especially serviceable in the newer and 
more modernly paved sections of the city and its suburbs. La Paz 
possesses many ancient and numerous imposing buildings ; among the 
latter are the new capitol building, the municipal theater, and the 
private residences on the Alameda. Persons interested in antiquities 
will find a wealth of material in Bolivia, and a visit to the National 
Museum in La Paz should not be neglected. The city's markets are 
also interesting, especially on Sundays, and to those familiar with 
the market places of Cairo, Darjeeling, etc., which always have their 
complement of tourists, the life, customs, and colorings seen at La 
Paz form striking comparisons. A coach or motor-car trip to Obrajes. 
about six miles distant, is well worth making. 

The average traveler, in his hasty visit, does not see Bolivia in 
detail — a land which the gifted naturalist, Raimundi, described as "a 
table of silver supported by columns of gold," so abundantly has nature 
deposited her minerals in this part of the world. May to December 
is usually regarded as the best season for the stranger to visit Bolivia. 

Leaving La Paz, one will make the best use of his time by passing 
out via Lake Titicaca to Mollendo, on the Pacific. Distance from La 
Paz is 520 miles. He could go directly to Arica, 287 miles, but in 
choosing the shorter route would miss the ruins of Tiahuanacu as 
well as the experience of a steamer voyage on the highest large body 
of water in the world, Lake Titicaca. Fifty miles from La Paz. en 
route to the lake, the railway train passes through a section of 

51 






; %■>■ 


l^'jf;^ 




*;>,:<>■.* v. 





A GLIMPSE OF THE RUINS OF TIAHUANACU. 

Scientists believe this city may have existed 3,000 years ago. To-day for a distance of 10 miles there are 
portions of buildings or streets fairly well preserved, far better than the above picture indicates. 



Tiahuanacu. The train usually stops and one may secure glimpses of 
vast ruins on either side of the road. If longer time is desired special 
arrangement should be made with the railway officials before leaving 
La Paz. 

Ten miles farther northward we find ourselves on the shore of 
Lake Titicaca, famous in legend, history, and story. The lake and 
the surrounding region is strikingly picturesque. Bolivia's towering 
peak, Sorata, dominates the landscape with its mantle of snow ; lower 
peaks and small ranges add to the charming scene ; cloud effects are 
striking and the apparent nearness to the sky is especially pronounced. 
Altitude is about 12,500 feet. 

Our course lies diagonally across the lake 125 miles to Puno in 
Peru. If an early start is made (boats usually leave a few hours 
before dark) the traveler may be rewarded by glimpses of the islands 
of the Sun and of the Moon whence came, according to tradition, the 
founders of the Inca race. "Necessity is the mother of invention." 
and nowhere do we find the statement more literally exemplified than 
in the balsas made of coarse grass which the natives of the region sail 
on the lake. No wood being available within many miles of Titicaca, 
the native resorted to the grass balsa which well serves his purpose. 
Nearing the Peruvian shore, the stranger should be on deck early in 
the morning to enjoy the picturesque surroundings and also to see the 
"narrows" through which the little steamer passes shortly before 
arriving at Puno. Meals on the Titicaca steamers are usually quite 
satisfactory, although practically everything must be brought thither 
from Bolivian or Peruvian cities many miles distant. 

An hour or two is the usual length of time required in landing, 
passing Peruvian customs and transferring to the railway at Puno. 
Trains now meet the boats on the pier and receive passengers and 
baggage. A short stop at Puno depot affords the traveler time to 
walk about the few streets of the place ; the railway follows the shore 
of the lake to Juliaca, about 10 miles distant. Here the railroad 
branches ; one line leading to Cuzco, 237 miles, and the other to the 
coast at Mollendo, 324 miles. The time to either place is slightly less 
than two days ; there are no night trains. 

At present there are two trains a week passing Juliaca for Cuzco. 
If there should be a sufficient number of persons traveling together, 
say twelve or more, arrangements might be made by communicating 
with the railway superintendent at Arequipa for a special train and 
quicker service. If one must wait connections at Juliaca there are 
two small and primitive hotels. Leaving this junction at about 10 

53 





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a. m., the journey is uneventful, and by night one is glad to rest at 
another primitive town, Sicuani, the most important place along 
the route. Meals are served at Tirapata and Sicuani. Highest point 
reached on this railway is at La Raya, 14,150 feet above the sea. 
Descendants of the Inca race offer trinkets to the stranger at various 
stations. 

Cuzco, capital of the former Inca Empire, has today about 26,000 
people and is located at 11,000 feet altitude. It is ancient and 
interesting, and even if conditions are primitive the stranger is glad 
to visit the marvelous and many well-preserved works left by Inca 
and pre-Inca civilization. Horses and mules are used in visiting 
the ruins. Cuzco boasts a university, with an American rector. The 
newest hotel is called the Pullman ; other hostelries are the Comercio, 
Royal, and Central. The hurried traveler usually devotes only one 
day to Cuzco ; but many weeks could be employed to advantage by 
those who wish to delve into history. 

Returning to Juliaca, the traveler catches the first train westward. 
A full day is required to reach Arequipa, the train climbing to an 
altitude of 14,666 feet and then gradually descending ; before Arequipa 
is reached at nightfall the valleys begin to show vegetation and agri- 
cultural crops are seen. The day's ride presents many fine views 
as well as marvelous feats of engineering. Meals are served on the 
train and are usually well prepared and wholesome. Mount Misti, 
20,000 feet high, often white with snow and pouring out smoke from 
the interior regions, dominates the landscape long before the train 
reaches Arequipa. 

Arequipa was founded by Pizarro in 1540. It stands at an altitude 
of 7.500 feet, has about 40,000 inhabitants, and is gradually modern- 
izing. Electricity has been introduced for cars and lighting purposes 
and there are a number of new buildings. Among the places of 
interest are several ancient churches, the Garden of Lucioni, new 
market; and the observatory of Harvard University, within a short 
carriage drive, deserves a visit. Owing to the prevailing clear 
atmosphere the photographs of the heavens secured by the scientific 
staff are especially interesting. Arequipa's new hotel offers improved 
accommodations for the traveler. 

From Arequipa to the port at Mollendo the distance is 106 miles; 
the train's time is about 5^ hours over a zigzag course; the right side 
of the train offers best views of the barren grandeur. There is a 
parlor car attached to some of the trains. The railway leads across 
the desert of Islay ; the traveler should watch for the curious sand 

56 



crescents numbered by thousands. Always in the form of crescents, 
continually but slowly moving, rarely disturbed by man or beast, they 
present an interesting scientific phenomenon. 

Mollendo is reached about noon ; a desert on one side and the ocean 
on the other. A steep walk leads from the station to several hotels 
and business streets. The place contains about 6,000 population, 
mostly of laboring classes. From May to November fogs and mists 
frequently prevail at Mollendo as well as generally along the Peruvian 
coast. Amusements are limited, and strangers are forced to spend 
much time watching the huge breakers dash against the rocky coast. A 
small bathing beach is popular. A number of ships are to be seen 
anchored offshore, and there are approximately weekly sailings. One 
may remain in Arequipa awaiting the arrival of ship at Mollendo ; often 
it is possible to leave the former in the morning and catch the vessel 
at Mollendo late in the afternoon. Heavy swells usually prevail at 
this port, making the boarding of ships, a mile or two out in the road- 
stead, difficult and sometimes dangerous. 

Steaming from Mollendo to Callao, 435 miles, is usually accom- 
plished in less than two days, depending on the number of ports 
visited en route. At Callao there are modern docking facilities, but 
landing is usually effected by means of the small boat manned by 
native "fleteros," who also take the passenger's baggage ashore. They 
contract for a stipulated amount to deliver the baggage in the hotei 
at Lima. The history of Calloa has been eventful, but closely 
associated with that of Lima, 8 miles inland. There are steam and 
electric car connections, the latter being more convenient. Cars leave 
a point near the landing pier. 

Lima, on the Rimac, was founded by Pizarro in 1535, and the 
mummy of the founder lies in the cathedral and may be seen by 
visitors. Today the city has 150,000 population; altitude, 500 feet. 
Rain rarely falls, and irrigation supplies moisture for the surrounding 
region. During recent years Lima has greatly modernized, most of 
the newer buildings being found in the Exposition section where 
beautiful avenues, magnificent public and private edifices are a special 
feature of the city's growth. Business centers about the Plaza de 
Armas ; electric car lines radiate to all sections from this central point- 
Hotels, cathedrals, post office, Houses of Congress, and many com- 
mercial establishments are located on or within a few squares of this 
plaza. Afternoon and evening crowds, music by military bands, etc., 
offer the stranger many interesting studies of Peruvian life. October 
to May is the best time to visit Peru. 




UNLOADING CATTLE AT CALLAO. 

Notwithstanding the fact that Peru raises many cattle, additional beef cattle must be imported. Th ; s 
picture shows the method of handling them. Breeding stock is also imported in increasing numbers. 



Some of the important places in addition to those above named 
are San Marcos University, founded in 155 1 ; the National Museum 
and the new Commercial Museum, both interesting ; Inquisition Plaza, 
Paseo Colon, Botanical Gardens, Cristobal Hill, bull ring (one of the 
largest in the world) ; trolley trips to Chorillos, Barranco, La Punta, 
etc., in order to see Peruvian bathing resorts ; an excursion to Oroya, 
138 miles, over the highest standard gauge railroad of the world, is 
interesting but hard on those having weak hearts. 

From Callao to Panama the distance is about 1,300 miles. Most 
of the ships in this service make under 300 miles per day. There are 
a number of ports of call. At Salaverry the ship may stop long 
enough for a hurried rail trip 10 miles inland to Trujillo. The ruins 
of Chan Chan lie a few niiles from the town; a distant view of portions 
of them and of the Pyramid of Moche may be had from the train 
(right side going). At Payta, 850 miles from Panama, venders of 
Panama hats come out to the ship in large numbers. Beautiful hats 
may be purchased at reasonable prices — two-thirds or a half cheaper 
than in the United States. 

Ecuador will soon be ready for a greater business with the world 
and for the tourist. Guayaquil, the country's chief port, is now under- 
going a thorough sanitating. Streets are being modernized, and other- 
wise the city is improving. The ancient capital of Ecuador, Quito, 
lies nearly 300 miles by railway from Guayaquil. A growing 
number of travelers are using the new railway "along the roof of 
the world" in order to visit the interesting old city. 

Guayaquil lies up the Guayas River 60 miles from the ocean, so 
the average ship passenger does not even secure a passing view of 
the second port of importance on the west coast of South America. 
However, on clear days when the ship is not many miles from shore 
it is possible to sight Cotopaxi or Chimborazo, the former sending to 
the sky a smoky column from its snow-white cone. 

Northward 840 miles we sight the foliage-bedecked islands in the 
Bay of Panama, and shortly thereafter drop anchor near the entrance 
to the world's greatest canal. 



61 



The Caribbean Nations 

BEFORE being permitted to land in the Panama Canal Zone, 
medical officers of the United States Public Health Service board 
the ship as she lies at anchor in the bay and carefully examine 
passengers relative to health conditions. If the vessel has called at the 
more northern ports of the west coast, it is likely that all voyagers will 
be required to spend several days in quarantine; the exact time of 
detention depending upon circumstances — the period that has elapsed 
since they boarded the ship, and the health conditions prevailing at the 
port of embarcation. 

The idea of being quarantined is looked upon by most persons 
with more or less dread or even danger, when in reality it is a pre- 
caution to themselves as well as to the general public. Let us glance 
at what the medical authorities exact of the incoming voyager from 
South America when he arrives at Balboa, the Pacific entrance to 
the canal. 

A small launch conveys the passengers from the ship to. the quaran- 
tine station. One dollar is charged for the little sail of a mile or two. 
the price including the transfer of the small hand baggage of the 
traveler. This station is now located on the mainland, near the month 
of the canal. Buildings with screened porches and windows are new 
and numerous and, of course, model structures in design and clean- 
liness. Walks and drives have been constructed and the growing shade 
trees will ere long make the grounds more attractive. Plain rooms 
with clean beds are provided, three wholesome meals daily are served, 
and within the grounds the enforced guest may walk here and there at 
will, although military and medical regulations prevail. About twice 
daily the temperature of each person is taken, and for this purpose all 
are assembled in the large dining hall at specified hours. Those with 
abnormal temperatures are more closely watched, or possibly removed 
to other buildings, so that in case of the development of a contagions 
disease the person afflicted is not a menace to others, and also receives 
the best medical attention by specialists. 

Panama and the canal have so frequently been described in detail 
that they require no attention here. The two fine hotels, the Tivoli 
at Panama and the Washington at Colon, respectively, conducted under 
the auspices of a department of the canal government, afford delightful 
accommodation for the traveler. Other hotels at either place are 
patronized by those wishing less expensive accommodation. Ancient 

63 





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SCENES IN COLOMBIA'S CAPITAL. 

Upper: The national capitol at Bogota. Center: The Avenida de la Republica. Lower: On the 
Plaza de Bolivar, the edifices shownjformingjtone side of the Plaza. 



Panama, about 7 miles distant from the present city, should of course, 
be seen by the stranger. A fine new highway connects the two places. 

Comparatively few travelers who have made the long tour of the 
South American Continent care to continue the voyage to the several 
countries bordering on the Caribbean without a period of rest. They 
usually return to the United States directly from Colon, and possibly 
visit the Caribbean nations on one of the many winter tours extensively 
advertised by steamship and tourist companies. 

However, to continue our sightseeing in South America we shall 
proceed from Colon to Colombia and Venezuela, and from the latter 
country voyage homeward via the Leeward Islands to New York. 
I r rom Colon there are in normal times sailings of passenger ships once 
a week or oftener touching at Cartagena, Puerto Colombia, Santa 
Marta, Puerto Cabello, La Guaira, Trinidad, and Barbados. Service 
to these ports is maintained by Italian, Spanish, French, Holland, 
English, and to some of them by American lines ; the former trade 
to the various ports of Europe. One may cross from Colon to Car- 
tagena, 280 miles and about one day's sail, by the United Fruit Line 
and later continue eastward by vessels of the other lines. 

Cartagena, with a population of about 30,000, is one of the oldest 
cities of Colombia, and its harbor ranks as the best of the country. 
Distance from New York is 2,300 miles. Passengers are landed at 
piers instead of by small boats. One of the interesting sights is the 
famous wall that once surrounded the city ; it is sufficiently wide in 
places to admit a carriage and horses. Coaches are available at about 
Si an hour for sightseeing in or near Cartagena; and this drive should 
include Manga, Espinal, Cabrero, and Pie de la Popa. Automobiles 
are growing in number, but the excessive cost of gasoline makes their 
use expensive. Other places which the stranger should see are the 
ancient Fort of San Felipe, La Popa Castle, the Tombs, Government 
Palace, Palace of Inquisition, and the several churches. 

The average sightseer has not time for the long and somewhat 
tiresome journey to Colombia's capital city, Bogota. However, the 
tourist and the business man are going farther and farther from beaten 
paths, and we will suppose that the traveler wishes to visit that inland 
city. The best route at the present time is as follows : From Carta- 
gena there is a daily train to the port of Calamar on the Magdalena 
River, 64 miles distant. First-class fare is $2.50. From Puerto 
Colombia the Magdalena is reached by narrow-gauge railroad, 17 
miles long, connecting the sea port with the river at Barranquilla. 
Owing to the presence of sand bars the mouth of the Magdalena is 

66 




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obstructed and ocean ships do not make ports on that river. A plan is 
on foot at present to provide capital for dredging the river's mouth 
and thereby providing a channel for ocean ships. 

Barranquilla has about 55,000 people and is an active business 
place. The trade winds from November to April temper the tropical 
heat. It is the starting point for upriver craft of various descrip- 
tions, all engaged in transporting raw products to the sea and returning 
manufactured goods. From Barranquilla to La Dorada, 600 miles up 
the river, one has a choice of steamboats of several companies, which 
are of the stern-wheel type somewhat similar to boats used on the 
Mississippi and Ohio Rivers. The larger Magdalena boats were con- 
structed in Pittsburgh and have modern cabins, electric fans, and other 
conveniences. They are wood burners and usually tie up at night, 
at which time the wood supply is loaded aboard. At La Dorada the 
traveler transfers to train and for 40 miles around rapids of the river 
uses the Dorada Extension Railway. At Beltran the railway term- 
inates, and boats transport the traveler 100 miles farther up the river to 
Girardot. From this port there is a railway (3-foot gauge) to Bogota, 
112 miles distant; but still another change must be made at Facatativa, 
where the Colombian National ends and the Sabana Railway begins. 
The latter, ere long, will be extended to the lower Magdalena, as sur- 
veys have already been made. This road will greatly shorten the trip 
to Bogota. 

The time from Barranquilla to Bogota is from 8 to 14 days ; much 
depends upon the condition of river waters and the amount of freight 
handled at the numerous stops along the route. Travelers should 
endeavor to catch the mail boats, which are the most commodious 
and best. The cost of the journey is about $100, or say $200, for the 
round trip from Barranquilla. One should carry mosquito netting, 
powder to keep off gnats and other insects, and of course a supply 
of reading matter. Current magazines and newspapers from the 
LJnited States are on sale in Panama and Colon, and steamers often 
bring them to Cartagena, etc. 

From the river port of Girardot there is a gradual ascent to the 
plain or the Sabana on which Bogota is located. This plain has an 
elevation of about 8,500 feet above sea level and therefore enjoys a 
very pleasant climate, although Bogota is only 4 degrees north of the 
equator. The temperature varies between 54° and 64 . Annual rain- 
fall is 43 inches. The city is about 2 l / 2 miles long and i l / 2 miles 
wide, and spreads over sloping lands; it was founded in 1538 and to- 
day has a population of about 120,000. Many edifices are of the 

68 




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Photos by John Brewer. 

VIEWS OF THE LA GUAIRA & CARACAS RAILWAY. 

The railway is a wonderful piece of engineering work. In many places the track is niched in the 

steep sides of the mountain, and in its length of twenty-thiee miles 

there are eight tunnels. 



Spanish one-story style. There arc four pretty parks, cathedrals, a 
national museum, a university, and various other public building 
Automobiles are multiplying and as a consequence there is much atten- 
tion given to building better highways. Fifteen miles distant from the 
city are the Falls of Tequendama, well worth seeing; the trip may In- 
made by railroad. The salt mines at Zipaquira are interesting, and 
may be visited en route to Nemocon, 30 miles from Bogota. 

Retracing our course to the \Iagdalena we make the northward 
voyage with the flowing current in less than half the time required for 
ascending the river. The port of Berrio is the point from which the 
rail journey to Medellin, the second city of Colombia, is made. 
Medellin has 50,000 people, is about 8,800 feet above sea level, is 
located in a rich mining region and has several cotton factories. 
Within recent years the city has modernized and improved. The dis- 
tance to the Magdalena at Berrio is approximately 100 miles, 83 of 
which have the service of the railway, which ere long will be available 
for the entire distance. 

For the benefit of the increasing number of persons who are becom- 
ing interested in the grazing and agricultural possibilities of regions 
of Colombia lying contiguous to the rivers Atrato, Sinu, Cauca, etc., 
it may be said that sailings approximately every two weeks from Carta- 
gena are provided by the several companies operating small steamers 
on those rivers. 

From Cartagena or Puerto Colombia, preferably the former, the 
traveler may pursue his journey to Venezuela by taking passage on 
a steamer of the lines already mentioned. In normal times the sailings 
may be figured at about every 10 days. If the boat selected calls at 
the ports of Santa Marta, Curagao, and Puerto Cabello, the better of 
course are one's chances for observations of peoples and customs. At 
the former the traveler sees phases of banana development which has 
grown to large proportions within a few years. Santa Marta itself is 
an ancient town of 9,000 people. Bolivar, the great South American 
liberator, died here and the traveler may see the house where his last 
days were passed. A railway is operated 93 miles inland, mainly 
through a region of banana and coffee cultivation. If one is traveling 
on a fruit steamer there may be an opportunity, while the vessel is 
loading cargo, to take a trip over the railway. 

The Dutch island of Curacao, 50 miles off the mainland of Vene- 
zuela, has at times belonged to various nations ; it is often a port of call 
for large steamers. Spanish-American history is closely interwoven 
with this island. YVillemstad is the port and capital, and the governor 

/I 




AN AVIATION CROWD NEAR CARACAS. 

In Venezuela, as elsewhere, the progress of aviation has attracted general attention, and thousands 
of people visit the grounds to witness the flights. 




A SECTION OF THE BEACH NEAR MACUTO, VENEZUELA. 



In the center of the picture on the water may be seen one of the bathing pavilions, which is very 
popular with the people of La Guaira, Caracas, and near-by towns. 



of the Dutch West Indies resides there. A peculiarity noted by the 
stranger is the inclination or bending of trees and vegetation toward 
the west, a condition attributed to the constant trade winds from the 
east. As in many other parts of the Tropics, the nights are delight- 
fully cool, while the heat of midday is tempered by breezes. 

Curacao is a port of call for a Venezuelan line of steamers plying 
to Maracaibo. There are also ships of the Red D Line, which sail 
weekly from New York, touching at San Juan, La Guaira, Puerto 
Cabello, and Maracaibo. The Venezuelan company known as Cia. 
Costanera y Fluvial maintains regular services between Maracaibo and 
Ciudad Bolivar, the latter being located 250 miles up the Orinoco. These 
steamers serve intermediate ports en route, and are especially con- 
venient for commercial salesmen, covering the smaller cities along the 
coast. 

Maracaibo has 50,000 population, is located on a fine harbor on 
the northwestern part of Lake Maracaibo, and has an extensive com- 
merce with interior regions of Venezuela and Colombia, whose products 
reach the various ports of the lake by several short railroads, river 
boats, etc. 

From Puerto Cabello (port of the hair) the traveler may leave the 
ship and proceed inland by rail to Valencia, 34 miles ; thence to 
Caracas, 137 miles from Valencia. Time, 10 hours; cost, about $10 
for the entire trip. Puerto Cabello, the railway terminus and port, has 
20,000 population, is the third in importance, and has the most 
modern customhouse of the country. The placid natural harbor sug- 
gested the name, as so little resistance is offered that ships are 
proverbially "anchored by hairs.'' Several hours' carriage drive costs 
about $5 for four persons. 

Valencia has 65,000 people and is an important commercial center 
surrounded by agricultural and cattle lands. The large lake of the 
same name is near, as is also the famous battle ground of Carabobo. 
Carriages are available. 

Eastward, 65 miles from Puerto Cabello, lies La Guaira. This port 
is 1,800 miles from New York, 460 miles south of Porto Rico, and is 
one of the world's picturesque harbors, with a beautiful background 
of mountains. Macuto, a bathing resort several miles eastward, is con- 
nected by electric line. There is a good hotel and many aristocratic 
Venezuelans and foreigners frequent the resort. If the traveler is 
fond of climbing he may follow the course taken from this point in 
1580, when the buccaneers scaled the mountains and descended on 
Caracas. 

La Guaira has about 14,000 population. The stranger who lands 

73 



at this purl will be amply rewarded by making the railroad trip to 
Caracas, 23 miles ; the air line is only 8 miles, a fact at once conveying 
the idea of the winding route. At every turn there are charming 
sylvan views as well as others of the ocean and the port of La Guaira. 
Time, two and one-half hours; cost, $3. There is also motor service. 
Caracas is an interesting city and dates back to its founding by the 
Spaniards in 1567. Earthquakes and sieges have left their marks, 
but each time it has arisen in more modern form. Today the popu- 
lation is 87,000. There are many fine residences and costly public 
buildings, theaters, churches, and parks. Streets are at right angles, 
well paved, and lighted by electricity, and the traveler will be pleased 
with the hospitality of the people as well as with the picturesque sur- 
roundings. The altitude of 3,000 feet above sea level is responsible 
for the delightful climate of perpetual spring. The mean temperature 
is 66.5 ° F. The stranger should visit the university, the Panteon, the 
Capitolio, Calvario (the hill 400 feet high, from which a magnificent 
view is obtained), the Vargas Hospital grounds, the residential suburb 
on the River Guaire. Short excursions to the grottoes of El Encanto 
and Encantado are well worth taking. Automobiles are increasing in 
number, and highway development, not only in the vicinity of the 
capital but in many sections of the Republic, is gradually making many 
interesting regions accessible to the business man and tourist. Caracas 
has five or more hotels, with rates ranging from $3 to $5 per dav. 
Owing to the number of tourists visiting Caracas during recent years 
additional hostelries have been planned and ere long will doubtless be 
available for the discriminating traveler. 

If desired, one may sail directly from La Guaira for New York by 
the steamers of the Red D Line, which call at Porto Rican ports on 
both outward and homeward voyages. The rates of passage range 
from $85 upward, and there are approximately weekly sailings. Time, 
eight days. 

Steaming out of the harbor of La Guaira on one of the larger 
eastbound vessels, we pass along the Venezuelan coast for several 
hundred miles, occasionally catching a glimpse of the foliage-bedecked 
shore, with several stops, until Port of Spain, Trinidad, is reached. 
The coastal vessels of the companies already named stop at smaller 
ports en route to the Orinoco, such as Guanta, Cumuna, Carupano, etc., 
and with possible calls at the island of Margarita, where the interesting 
pearl fisheries are a source of large revenue to the people. 

The island of Trinidad lies only 16 miles off the coast of Vene- 
zuela and almost opposite the delta of the Orinoco. It is a British pos- 



/D 




A BREAD SELLER IN AN INTERIOR TOWN OF VENEZUELA. 

To the traveler unfamiliar with Spain or Latin America this little bread vender will prove an unusual 
and picturesque attraction. Note his well-kept mule, his intelligent face, and how carefully the bread 
barrels are covered to keep out flies and dust. 



session and is about to miles long and, together with Tabago, near 
by, forms a joint colony. Port of Spain is the chief shipping center 
and has a population of 60,000; in recent years there have been many 
immigrants from India and other oriental lands. There is a large 
English hotel, and from November to March tourists from Europe and 
the United States make the place animated. 

Most persons who visit Trinidad are anxious to sec the famous 
Pitch Lake, from which quantities of asphalt are annually shipped 
to other countries. Twice a week there is a train leaving Port of 
Spain for this lake, which covers about 1.00 acres of land. The trip 
consumes the entire day, starting at 7 in the morning and returning 
at 6 p. m., traveling by rail and connecting with a small Government 
steamer at San Fernando. Food is obtained aboard the steamer. 
The round-trip ticket costs about $4. 

From Port of Spain, which is visited annually by ships of many 
nations, the traveler usually has no difficulty in securing passage 
either north or south, or to Europe. A number of the steamers plying 
between New York and the cities of eastern South America make this 
port. 

About 200 miles northeast of Trinidad lies the island of Barbados, 
another English possession and one also offering the traveler, in addi- 
tion to interesting sightseeing, pleasant hotel accommodations. Excel- 
lent highways lead from Bridgetown, the capital, to all parts of the 
island, but owing to their extreme whiteness and the glare of the 
tropical sun, strangers are cautioned to use smoked glasses when 
traveling over the island. Automobiles are available in limited num- 
bers, while carriages are plentiful, the double team costing about $3 
per hour. The old-fashioned windmills to be seen in every direction 
are some of the picturesque features in connection with sugar pro- 
duction. The following places will be of interest to strangers : Crane 
Hotel, 12 miles from Bridgetown; St. John's Church, 13 miles distant, 
commands a fine view of the western coast; Codrington University, 
the oldest college of the West Indies, is 14 miles away; Boiling Spring, 
another sight visited by tourists, is 16 miles from the capital. All of 
these places and others may be visited by automobile. During our 
winter months there is usually a quota of tourists from the United 
States to be found at Barbados, the climate being especiallv inviting 
and salubrious. Curios of many varieties are offered the visitor at 
Bridgetown and elsewhere. 

A number of the northbound vessels after calling at Bridgetown 
pass eastward of the group known as Leeward Islands. Frequently 



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the ship is near enough for a good bird's-eye view oi the towns nnd 
settlements. The first island passed is St. Lucia; an hour or two later 
the ship passes Martinique in full view of the remains of St. Pierre, 
the town destroyed by the volcano, Mount Pelee, some years ago; the 
next island is Dominica, with its quaint little capital, Roseau; Guade- 
loupe, St. Kitts and other islands are passed in turn. In order to 
stop over at the various islands the traveler avails himself of the 
service maintained by the Royal Mail Steam Packet Co., which has 
regular sailings of small steamers from Bridgetown. The Guianas 
may also be reached by the same service. As to steamship fares 
covering so many ports and short runs, it may be said that the rate 
of $7 per day, including meals and stateroom berth, is a fair estimate 
of travel expenses on the smaller vessels of the intercolonial service 
above mentioned. 

We have now made the entire circuit of the South American Con- 
tinent, a distance of 16,500 miles ; if we include the side trips into 
Paraguay, Bolivia, and Colombia, together with the many miles covered 
by automobiles and carriages, and even the mule team, the approximate 
distance of our tour has been more than 20,000 miles. We have 
looked upon some of the wildest scenes that nature presents in any 
region of the world; we have enjoyed operas in theaters not equaled 
in beauty or lavish appointments in any North American city ; all in all, 
our journey has been varied in the extreme and over a course which 
in future years will doubtless draw a constantly increasing number 
of travelers and tourists. 




SECTION OF THE HARBOR AT BRIDGETOWN, BARBADOS 



79 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



015 812 738 6 



THE PAN AMERICAN UNION is the inter- 
national organization and office maintained in 
Washington, D. C, by the twenty-one Amer- 
ican republics, as follows: Argentina, Bolivia, Brazil, 
Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominican Re- 
public, Ecuador, Guatemala, Haiti, Honduras, Mex- 
ico, Nicaragua, Panama, Paraguay, Peru, Salvador, 
United States, Uruguay, and Venezuela. It is de- 
voted to the development of commerce, friendly 
intercourse, good understanding and the preserva- 
tion of peace among these countries. It is sup- 
ported by quotas contributed by each country, 
based upon their population. Its affairs are ad- 
ministered by a Director General and Assistant 
Director, elected by and responsible to a Govern- 
ing Board, which is composed of the Secretary of 
State of the United States and the diplomatic 
representatives in Washington of the other Amer- 
ican governments. These two executive officers 
are assisted by a staff of international experts, stat- 
isticians, commercial specialists, editors, translators, 
compilers, librarians, clerks, and stenographers. The 
Union publishes a Monthly Bulletin in English, 
Spanish and Portuguese, which is a careful record of 
Pan American progress. It also publishes numerous 
special reports and pamphlets on various Pan Amer- 
ican subjects of practical information. Its library, the 
Columbus Memorial Library, contains 40,000 vol- 
umes, 25,000 photographs, 160,000 index cards, and a 
large collection of maps. The Union is housed in a 
beautiful building erected through the munificence of 
Andrew Carnegie and the contributions of the Amer- 
ican Republics. 



